The Dog Walker's Nightmare

The typical American sidewalk is a lovely sight to behold. On a crisp fall day it is a great place to stroll the dog around the neighborhood and take in some fall color. In the summer it is a path for bikes and blades and the perfect canvas for toddlers wielding chalk. Unfortunately in winter it is one other thing to be shovelled. But, when it is covered in snow, it can also be a smooth trail for a plastic sled. In a variety of ways, a sidewalk is lovely. It's a comfortable, convenient, cozy piece of home.


It has taken some time, and some grumbling, but I think I have finally come to terms with Vietnam's version of a sidewalk. Today Mom, Jonah and I went for a walk in the area around our hotel. I strapped Jonah in the backpack and down the sidewalk we went. And as I was walking, I decided to throw out my preconceived notions about sidewalks and just except the Hanoi version for what it was. In Hanoi, a sidewalk is really not for pedestrians. With space at a premium, the sidewalk has become a little bit of everything, from public restroom to barbershop.


First and foremost the Hanoi sidewalk is a parking lot. Scooters fill sidewalks at every turn. It is often impossible to take more than three forward steps on the sidewalk pavement before running into a parked scooter. Much of our walk today was spent in the street avoiding parked motorbikes. At lunchtime the sidewalk is transformed into a restaurant. Small stools that serve as chairs are pulled onto the sidewalk and noddle patrons crowd around bowls of pho to discuss the morning's events. In the late afternoon I've seen shoes being polished, nails being done and hair being cut all on the public sidewalk. And don't get me wrong, these events are not taking place on sidewalks in front of established businesses. They are taking place on sidewalks in random parks, on street corners and in front of historical buildings.


So, to avoid complaining about a decent place to walk, I've decided to except the Hanoi sidewalk for what it is.....a great place to people watch. And, if I happen to be stuck in the middle of the city with no bathroom in sight...............


Tomorrow our small group of adopting families is headed to the Perfume Pagoda. I've been told that the trip involves a four hour bus ride, a two hour canoe ride and a two to three hour hike up a steep path to the pagodas. It should be an excellent adventure. When we get back I'll let you all know if it actually smells like perfume in the Pagodas.


Until then-

Betsy